Summer on an estuary is a crowded, green, distracting sort of place. By December the leaves are down, the reedbeds have collapsed into straw, and the last of the summer visitors have long gone. What arrives instead is the reason so many of us wrap up and head out in the coldest weeks of the year: tens of thousands of waders and wildfowl, down from Iceland, Scandinavia and Arctic Russia, settling onto the mudflats to feed and roost.
The estuary in winter is a larder. Mud is astonishingly productive — full of worms, cockles, ragworm and small crustaceans — and the birds that depend on it have nowhere else to go when the northern lakes and tundra freeze. Cold weather also works in the watcher's favour. Birds burn energy fast, so they feed hard and gather in tight, spectacular flocks rather than scattering thinly across the flats. The lack of foliage does the rest.
There is also the sheer peace of it. On a frosty weekday morning you may have an entire hide to yourself, a flask in one hand and a flock of several thousand knot wheeling over the water like a shaken sheet.
The single most useful skill on an estuary is tide reading. At low water the birds are spread over square miles of mud, often too distant to identify properly. As the tide pushes in, they are squeezed progressively closer to shore — and the last hour or two before high water can be extraordinary.
Arriving at low water is not wasted time — it is your chance to watch feeding behaviour, learn the mud, and work out which channels the birds will follow as the water rises.
The waders are the heart of it. Expect dunlin in their thousands, knot packed into dense, restless balls, grey plover standing hunched and silver on the mud, bar-tailed godwit probing deep with those extraordinary bills, plus oystercatcher, curlew, redshank and turnstone along the tide line. Learn the calls — curlew's rising whistle, redshank's alarm, the piping of oystercatchers — and you will know what is about before you lift your binoculars.
Wildfowl gather on the open water and graze the saltmarsh. Look for wigeon whistling softly, tight rafts of teal, smart shelduck, elegant pintail and family parties of brent geese cropping the grass. On the reedbed edges, watch for a bittern creeping out of the stems on the coldest mornings.
And then the raptors. A peregrine putting up ten thousand waders at once is one of the great sights of the British winter, and you will often hear the panic before you see the cause. Merlin hunt low and fast along the tide line, marsh harriers quarter the reeds, and at dusk a short-eared owl may drift across the saltmarsh on stiff, moth-like wings.
Estuary birdwatching is a standing-still-and-getting-cold business. The watchers who see the most are simply the ones who stay comfortable longest.
Winter birds are living on a tight energy budget. Every unnecessary flush costs them calories they may not be able to spare, so treat a roost as you would a sleeping patient.
Days are short, so plan around the light. Get there before dawn if you can — the sound of hundreds of curlew and redshank calling out of the darkness over the incoming tide is worth the early alarm, and the first light on a flock of wigeon is something you will remember.
Midday, when the tide is slack, is the quiet spell. Use it to walk the reserve, check the saltmarsh and reedbed edges, or simply warm up. Then settle back into a hide for the afternoon, when birds return to feed as the water drops again and the raptors make their last patrols before dusk.
Finally, return to the same spot through the winter. Note what you see, roughly where and when, and which tides produced the best viewing. Estuaries are surprisingly predictable places. Learn one properly across a season and you will stop hoping for a good day and start knowing exactly when to go.
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